Being that my BF is from Mexico, I have a determined critic at my side (and one whom I should mention is overwhelmingly Mexican proud). When we moved to NY we made it our mission to try the "best-ranked" mexican spots. Particularly awful were the offerings at Paladar and Centrico which were at one time ranked as the best.
So in our attempt to find manhattan based mexican that was at best reminiscent- we stumbled upon Itzocan, an unassuming and perpetually packed spot on 9th st. between a and 1st. Disclaimer: I apologize for the condescending tone of this post. I loathe all those "I just can't find any authentic (thai, mex, italian, spanish, greek...etc) in NY." I think it's a way of differentiating yourself from all the other people who actually like those places by assuming that you understand the cuisine much better than them. Therefore: Me a culinary savant- You an ignorant ingester of sub-par fare (and you like it! gasp!).
So let's say this, I like cheap mex. I like tex-mex. I actually enjoyed (with the exception of the two named) my meals at most of the mexican restaurants I have tried here, even if I enjoyed with an unimpressed enthusiasm. BUT I still crave the food I've had in mexico that feels like it was cooked by one person in a small kitchen. It's different. Perhaps not better. But different. And it's nice to find here.
And I'll tell you, Itzocan comes fairly close to that. I was craving guac last night and this one was SPIIICCY with enormous pieces of cilantro that burst in your mouth. Basic and delicious. But what stole the show wasn't the chicken with mole (G's meal) or my queso oaxaca and nopal salad- it was this crazy brulee of calabaza. So NOT authentic mexican by any means- it was creme brulee for crying out loud. But pumpkin creme brulee that tasted like something someone's mother whipped up for you with just the basics, cream, eggs, sugar and pumpkin. It was the most amazing dessert I've had in while. Not because it was authentic- but actually somehow reminded me why I love mexican cuisine.
1 comment:
Fyi: There is another location, Itzocan Bistro, on 101st and Lexington. I have been very curious to try the Mexican-French cuisine, and the calabaza creme brulee sounds like the perfect fusion of the two.
Let me know if you want to try it again, I have a buy one entree get one free coupon!
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